Technical Marvels from Watches & Wonders
Showcasing the ingenuity of Swiss watchmaking
What made the technical watches at Watches & Wonders so remarkable?
For all the art and craft that goes into mechanical watches, at their heart, they are machines. Purely mechanical, incredibly small and astonishingly robust. For many collectors, it is this technical aspect of watches that makes them sing. And when it comes to innovative, technically impressive timepieces, Watches & Wonders 2026 did not disappoint, with a diverse range of complex chronographs, the most complicated time-only watch ever made and a brand new gold alloy.
The Ulysse Nardin Super Freak
For more than 25 years, the Ulysse Nardin Freak has dominated the conversation when it comes to high-concept high horology, and the latest Freak is no exception. The Super Freak is, according to Ulysse Nardin, the most complicated time-only watch ever made. Not only does this remarkable watch feature twin tourbillons, as well as the world’s smallest differential and gimbal, but it’s also a watch in which 97% of the calibre is in motion. As if this wasn’t special enough, the watch is packed full of Ulysse Nardin technology, like the Grinder winding system, silicon and Diamonsil, as well as an hour disc made of transparent blue Nanosital - all wrapped up in a 44mm white gold case.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 in Jubilee Gold
Not all technical innovations have to do with a watch's mechanism, as this new take on the classic Rolex Day-Date shows. The case is made from a brand new alloy for Rolex, called Jubilee Gold - a fitting celebration for the 100th anniversary of the Oyster Case. This new alloy is less flashy than the yellow of Everose gold, and much warmer than white - this makes sense as the 18k alloy combines all three types of gold. While a gold Rolex always carries a certain weight, this new Jubilee Gold case is much more subtle, and perfectly matched by the soft green dial made from aventurine stone.
The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph
The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph proves why TAG Heuer is the king of chronographs. The new TH80-00 calibre is remarkable, featuring two compliant mechanisms that render the traditional levers-and-wheels system unnecessary. These compliant mechanisms, made using LIGA technology, control the start, stop and reset using elastic deformation. On top of that, there’s a carbonspring balance, making this the perfect watch for TAG Heuer to remind the world that TAG stands for Techniques d’Avant Garde.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux
Another clever twist on the chronograph comes from Parmigiani Fleurier, who created an on-demand rattrapante chronograph that sees five hands stacked on a single pinion. While the chronograph is inactive, it looks like a regular Tonda PF, in steel and platinum. The only hint of something special is the pusher at eight. Press it and the seconds hand jumps to 12, and immediately starts timing. Simultaneously, the rhodium-plated hours and minutes jump to the top of the dial and start measuring elapsed hours and minutes, while gold hands emerge to mark the time. Press the button again, and the chronograph stops. Press it a third time, and all goes back to normal. It might seem simple, but it's incredibly smart.
