Unanticipated Debuts from Watches & Wonders 2025
Unexpected designs, bold innovations, and a few game-changing moments from Geneva.
What We Didn't See Coming
When most of what you see at Watches & Wonders represents new dials or case materials, it’s hard to be surprised. However, sometimes a brand makes a move that no one expected. Here are the biggest surprises of Watches & Wonders 2025.
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Air
If you were betting on what Ulysse Nardin would showcase at Watches & Wonders, the safe call would have been on a new version of the Freak. What we didn’t expect was an incredible, ultra-light, open-worked diver. But that’s what we got. The Ulysse Nardin Diver Air is an incredible achievement, weighing a mere 52 grams, including the strap. To do this, Ulysse Nardin has done everything possible to cut weight, with a calibre designed to minimise mass while maximising strength, and a case made from a modular construction of titanium and carbon fibre. What’s most remarkable is that, given its lightweight, this watch is still a full-spec dive watch, ready for action.
The Tudor Black Bay 68
For years, one of the big stories in watches has been about how cases are getting smaller. Not so long ago, it seemed like 42mm was the regular size for a men's watch, but in recent times, we've been seeing far more 38 and 39mm cases - with proportions inspired by vintage watches and a return to classical proportions. So it was somewhat surprising for Tudor to announce their Black Bay 68, a watch that takes the refined shape and profile of the 39mm Black Bay 58 and recreates it in a 43mm case called the Black Bay 68. While we may not have seen it coming, it's hard to argue with the logic - after all, more choices are better for more people, and we're confident this larger Black Bay will have some big fans.
The Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Bal des Amoureux Automate
In 2010, Van Cleef & Arpels debuted the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux, a timepiece that perfectly encapsulated the brand's vision of the Poetry of Time. Ostensibly, it is a bi-retrograde where the hour and minute indicators are represented by two halves of a couple, gradually moving to meet on a Parisian bridge, where they kiss at midnight and noon. The watch has been a phenomenal success for the brand, so it was a little surprising to learn that this pair of lovers has left the bridge and ventured further afield, specifically to a guinguette, a traditional open-air café with a relaxed dance culture. It's at once a very specific cultural reference, but also one with an immediate and universal appeal - it's hard not to fall for this delicate pair as they move across the sculpted white gold tiles towards their chaste affections.
The Bremont Terra Nova Nova Jumping Hour
Bremont has had a tumultuous few years, with a change of management and strategic direction upsetting the proverbial apple cart at one of Britain's most-loved watch brands. While Bremont's Watches & Wonders 2025 collection was far less contentious than last year, there were still some genuine surprises. First, though, the Altitude collection, which represents the brand's aviation collection, offered up the MB Meteor, an evolution of the iconic Martin-baker II that very much delivers on the brief by updating and improving the ergonomics and design of this much-loved piece. However, one watch from Bremont that no one saw coming was the limited edition Terra Nova Jumping Hour in bronze. Taking the case silhouette of the Terra Nova, Bremont has completely replaced the dial with a solid bronze facade, with three windows, one for the jump hour display, one for minutes, and a central window for the rotating compass rose. Inspired by the protective coverings of old military watches, this is a clever take on the classic field watch design.
The Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF
Chopard is capable of pulling some real rabbits out of the hat - they’re known for their incredible jewellery watches, the L.U.C. collection and, in recent years, the mighty Alpine Eagle. The Alpine Eagle has built a reputation as a sophisticated statement piece, so the sporty and technical Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF was not something we saw coming. Made from super-tough ceramised titanium and powered by an exceptionally high-frequency 8Hz movement, this sleek timepiece features a stealthy black dial and marks a surprising departure from Chopard’s signature style.
